Alaskan Malamute

AQAQQ'a One Tu Watch [Dodger] (left) Matanuska's Sunny Delight (right)


A Malamute Alphabet -the Alaskan Malamute from A to Z by Linda Lampe & Cindy Eliasson e-mail address Dreams@Earthlink.Net
  • A is for Angulation
  • B is for Bone
  • C is for Coat
  • D is for Disposition
  • E is for Eyes and Ears
  • F is for Feet
  • G is for Gait
  • H is for Head
  • I and J are for Important Judging
  • K is for Knowledge
  • L is for Legs
  • M is for Muzzle
  • N is for Neck
  • O is for Overall Balance
  • P is for Powerful Fronts
  • Q is for Quality
  • R is for Rears
  • S is for Size
  • T is for Tails
  • U is for Unsoundness
  • V is for Variety of Colors and Markings
  • W is for Well Let Down Hock
  • X is for "X-cellent" Bites and Teeth
  • Y is for Years of Controversy
  • Z is for Zest for Life

    A is for Angulation:

    The Alaskan Malamute is described as a moderately angulated breed with "shoulders moderately sloping" and "stifles moderately bent." Extremes are not in keeping with a natural breed, hence the term "moderate," which is used with great frequency in the entire breed standard. "Moderate" might be described as something that does not call attention to itself by being extreme. A correctly angulated Malamute will exhibit a strong rear drive and a far-reaching front assembly. Balance between the front and rear is absolutely vital for efficient locomotion. The stilted gait of the straight-angled dog and the lack of power in the overly angulated dog are equally severe deviations from the standard and should be penalized as such.

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    B is for Bone:

    The Alaskan Malamute is described as a heavy-boned dog in combination with all the other physical equipment necessary to perform his function as a freighting sled dog. Judges should not limit themselves to a visual appraisal of bone, as they can be misled by the amount of leg hair possessed by the dog. Even the smaller bitches should have obvious heavy bone in proportion to their size.

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    C is for Coat:

    The Malamute's coat is thick and coarse, never long and soft or curly. The standard describes the undercoat as being from one to two inches in depth and the guard coat as moderately short to medium. A good average guard coat length would be approximately two inches on the side of the body, increasing to three or four inches around the neck, down the back to the rump and the tail. The coat should be naturally oily and woolly and should stand off the body, never lying flat, except during the summer months when the undercoat has been shed.

    D is for Disposition:

    The Malamute is an active, curious, self-confident breed. He is described as affectionate, friendly and devoted. He is not a "one-man" dog. The Eskimos often shared their dogs, and it was necessary for the Malamute to take direction and commands from non-family members. Malamutes are highly intuitive and can therefore react unfavorably to those who are intimidated or fearful of them, and they certainly will not take orders from those they don't respect. Their playful antics in the conformation and obedience rings have cause more than one or two exhibitors to become red-faced! Fortunately most judges do not become impatient with the entertainment offered as a break from a long, tedious day of judging!

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    E is for Eyes and Ears:

    The Malamute's eyes are obliquely placed in the skull, moderately large for their shape. The almond shape is one of the most beautiful and distinguishing features of the total appearance. Round eyes should be faulted. Dark eyes are preferred. Blue eyes are a complete disqualification. Ears should be of medium size but small in proportion to the head. They are triangular in shape and slightly pointed at the tips, not wide and rounded.

    The ear set should never be too high (on top of the head) nor too low (at the side of the head) but should give the appearance of standing off from the skull. This moderately wide set gives the Malamute the ability to rotate its ears to hear the dog or sled driver behind him. When working the Malamute can fold his well-furred ears against his skull. Ears that are too large are inefficient for heat retention and should be penalized.

    F is for Feet:

    It has been said that a Malamute is only as good as his feet, and there is no doubt that having proper feet was an important component for survival in the arctic environment. The Malamute's feet should be very large, tight and deep, with well-cushioned pads, giving a firm, compact appearance. The toes should be tight fitting and well arched, never splayed or flat!

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    The large foot enabled the Malamute to avoid penetrating deep snow and thick toenails helped to create traction on icy surfaces. Feet that are splayed, lack sufficient cushioning, or are in any other way unsound, should be seriously faulted.

    G is for Gait:

    The correct gait for the Malamute could best be described as powerful. It will be steady and balanced, while displaying great agility. The front should travel true in line with no toeing in or out nor moving too close or too wide. The rear likewise travels clean with hocks turning neither in nor out, and shows extreme power without any wasted motion or "high kicks."

    From the side, the Malamute should have a smooth reaching stride, again exhibiting strong rear drive from the hindquarters through the loin. He is not intended to have the flying trot of some of the Herding breeds, but likewise his gait should never be restricted or choppy. As the Malamute's speed increases, his legs will converge to a center line. Because the Malamute is a freighting sledge dog, movement is certainly one of the most important factors in judging the breed, and any gait that is stilted or not completely efficient and tireless should be penalized heavily.

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    H is for Head:

    The head is obviously the first thing that catches one's eye, and the lack of a beautiful head and expression can make all the difference in the general appeal of a particular animal. The Malamute's head should be broad and powerful and indicate a high degree of intelligence. It should never be so large as to make the dog appear clumsy or coarse, but narrow heads with insufficient back skull are a far more common problem in the breed as a whole. The skull should be broad and moderately rounded between the ears with gradual narrowing and flattening on top as its approaches the eyes, rounding off to moderately flat cheeks. There should be a slight furrow between the eyes, and the top line of the skull and top line of the muzzle should show a slight break downward from a straight line as they join. The variety of head and face markings allowed in the breed make each dog a unique specimen.

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    I and J are for Important Judging:

    After all the various descriptions and explanations in the standard, this one section clearly stands out as a firm reminder to the judge:
      "In judging the Alaskan Malamute, (its) function as a sledge dog for heavy freighting must be given consideration above all else." The Malamute is structured for strength and endurance; therefore, the standard explains that any characteristic that interferes with the accomplishment of this purpose should be considered the most serious of faults! These faults include splay-footedness, any unsoundness or weakness in legs, cow hocks, bad pasterns, straight shoulders, lack of angulation, stilted gait, ranginess, shallowness, ponderousness, light bone and poor overall proportion. Minor faults will be "forgiven" in a Malamute that meets all the structural requirements needed to do its job.

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    K is for Knowledge:

    Knowledge for both the breeder and the judge is vital for the preservation of the Malamute. The breeder's knowledge enables him to select the finest specimens for breeding and showing. He will be aware of the genetic problems in the breed, and his goal will be to produce only physically and mentally sound animals that conform to the breed standard. The good breeder realizes that he learns something from every breeding he does and from every Malamute he encounters.

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    L is for Legs:

    As previously noted with feet, a Malamute is only as good as his legs, since they are directly involved in how well he stands and moves! The front legs should be straight with heavy bone and muscle, and with no weakness in the pasterns. Hind legs should be broad and powerfully muscled through the thighs, with moderately bent stifles and no cowhocks. The standard further stresses the importance of good legs by stating, "The legs of the Malamute must indicate unusual strength and tremendous propelling power. Any indication of unsoundness in legs or feet, front or rear, standing or moving, is to be considered a serious fault!"

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    M is for Muzzle:

    The Malamute's muzzle should be bulky, diminishing slightly in width and depth from the junction with the skull to the nose. Muzzles should never be long, pointed or Collie-like, nor should they be stubby or have excessive stop. They should give the impression of being large and bulky in proportion to the size of the skull. Lips are tight-fitting and jaws are broad. The lips are black.

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    N is for Neck:

    The neck of the Malamute should be deep, well muscled and moderately arched. The coat there will also be longer and denser. Dogs that lack angulation in the shoulder and are restricted in front movement will often give the appearance of lacking a definable neck. By the same token, many over angulated dogs have necks that are long and out of proportion.

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    O is for Overall Balance:

    The Malamute is a breed that should be beautifully balanced from head to tail. The front and rear assemblies should be equally angulated and the body compactly built without being short coupled. A long loin is to be faulted. Every aspect of the Malamute should give the overall appearance of a completely proportionate animal.

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    P is for Powerful Fronts:

    The Malamute should have a deep chest and powerful, moderately sloping shoulders. These are both absolutely essential for its performance as a heavy freighting animal. Its front assembly should turn neither in nor out, and the legs should be straight to the pasterns when viewed from the front. Pasterns should be short and strong with only a slight slope when viewed from the side.

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    Q is for Quality:

    There's no question that the goal of every breeder is to produce quality animals - dogs to be admired by his peers as excellent representatives of the breed. The quality breeder is adamant about breeding only correct specimens that are physically and mentally sound. Whether selling a show prospect or a pet, his buyers can be sure of the quality of the Malamute they have purchased.

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    R is for Rears:

    Malamutes must have an excellent rear, for without a good rear, a particular animal cannot be a good Malamute and perform the job for which it was intended! Rears should be moderately angulated with a well let down hock. The legs should not appear bowed in bone but should be broad and heavily muscled through the thighs. Malamutes stand and move true in line, are absent of cowhocks and display tremendous power without wasted motion. Dogs with sufficient angle in the rear will move with a stilted or choppy gait, and while over angulated animals may exhibit a "flying" side gait, their movement is weak or sloppy when viewed from the rear. Dew claws should be removed shortly after birth.

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    S is for Size:

    Because there is a natural range of size in the breed, we have no disqualification in this category. Desirable freighting sizes are identified as 25 inches and 85 pounds for dogs and 23 inches and 75 pounds for bitches. The standard, however, clearly points out that size should never outweigh type, proportion and functional attributes in importance. Only when dogs are identical in all of these aspects should be judge choose the animal closest to the desirable freighting size! It's important to remember that we're supposed to be breeding Malamutes - not Great Danes and not Siberian Huskies. The standard serves as a reminder of where our size goals should be directed.

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    T is for Tails:

    Tails are easily one of the most common problems seen in the breed as a whole. Unfortunately, in most cases, you can count on one hand the number of correct tail sets seen in the show ring at any given time!

    The tail should appear over the back as a waving plume, not tightly curled, resting on the back, snapped or carried like a fox brush. Tails should be well furred and sufficient in length to display the arched waving plume.

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    U is for Unsoundness:

    No unsoundness should be tolerated in a working sledge breed. As mentioned previously, minor faults may be "forgiven" by the judge in favor of the most physically sound specimens. Any characteristic that would interfere with the accomplishment of the Malamute's purpose should be considered an example of unsoundness and labeled a serious fault. Some examples are poor feet, any unsoundness in legs while standing or moving, cowhocks, weak pasterns, lack of angulation and any gait that is not balanced, strong and steady.

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    V is for Variety of Colors and Markings:

    Malamutes come in a variety of colors, ranging from all shades of gray to black and all shades of sable to red. White is the only solid color allowed. No preference should be given to color! Color combinations are allowed on undercoats, points and trimmings. Marking can be cap like or mask-like, or combinations of both. White is always the predominant color on underbodies, parts of legs, feet and face markings. Malamutes can have fleur de lis, blazes, stars, bars, goggles,etc. on the face and head. The collar and/or nape spot markings are described in the standard as "attractive and acceptable" and should not be penalized! The Malamute is a mantled breed (blanketed); therefore, uneven splashing or broken color extending over the body is undesirable.

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    W is for Well Let Down Hock:

    Difficult to define but unmistakable when seen, the well let down hock is what gives the Malamute a gently sloping top line. A long hock is to be faulted, however, the Malamute should likewise not "sink into" its rear as this would indicate weakness. Picture a straight back, sloping gently to the hips, with moderately bent stifles, and broad and strong hocks that are likewise moderately bent, and you have the ideal structure.

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    X is for "X-cellent" Bites and Teeth:

    The Malamute's teeth are large and meet with a scissors grip. The bite should never been overshot or undershot. The wry or misaligned mouth prevents the dog from efficiently closing its mouth and should be considered the most serious of all bite problems. Lips are tight-fitting to avoid drooling and subsequent ice formation on the lips.

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    Y is for Years of Controversy:

    Type Versus Soundness:
      A correct specimen of any breed must possess both type and soundness. Certainly there are many lovely dogs with striking breed type that turn into walking disasters with their first steps. By the same token, the mixed-breed is one of the most sound animals. A statement made once by a judge while being interviewed that best exemplified the combination of type and soundness in proper judging:
        "I begin," she explained, "by first selecting the animals that exhibit the best 'type.' Then I rejudge according to overall soundness."

    Z is for Zest for Life:

    Malamutes should be friendly and outgoing, displaying a high degree of activity and enthusiasm. They are true clowns, fun-loving and extremely smart. Their intelligence is often mislabeled by so-called trainers who describe them as stupid and difficult to train, when in fact this stubborn, self-confident personality is what enabled them to survive extreme arctic conditions for generations. The Malamute should be happy, move with enthusiasm and display expression and interest, but showmanship should never be the determining factor in judging over a more sound and physically correct specimen.

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